Freezing Point
My first visit to Sikkim, and I found myself climbing out of a jeep stuck in knee-deep mud in pouring rain at 17000 feet. Lush dense forests, gushing streams, flower-carpeted mountainsides, landslides, icicle fenced tracks, frozen lakes, pouring rains, dazzling waterfalls, snow capped mountains, sub-zero temperatures, biting cold wind, colourful monasteries, log cabins, cheap booze....Already something tells me I will visit this state again.
Gangtok is a study in contrast. Praying wheels and cruiser bikes, streaked haired youth and robed monks, praying flags and hip brands, a monastery founded by a flying monk and a pub straight out of Americana - the city has it all. Two days in this city of ups and downs and you are through with tempting shoes (!!!), cosmetics, clothes (and handicrafts) from Lal Bazaar and M G Marg shops. Overlook the cosmetics and pick up a sturdy pair of boots. Walking is a way of life in Sikkim. And ladies, be ready for the ultimate feet... err... feat. The local women make the most of dry roads in summer by navigating steep slopes on six inch heels. Caution: Try this at your own risk! Take my advice; some things are just to be admired.
Although places around Gangtok are lovely tourist attractions, take my word and hire a 4-wheel drive jeep to take you north by northwest. Destination - Gurudongmar, a lake frozen all through the year at a splendid height of 19000 feet. Believe me its breathtaking - provided you have any breath left when you reach there!
Now this is easier said than done. There are dozens of tour operators - quoting varying levels of exorbitant rates (anywhere between 9000 to 19000 rupees for a 3 nights/4 days tour (guide, driver, lodging, boarding included). Scout around. Check your funds and decide. A wise thing would be to gather your gal pals along as single travel in the North Sikkim can burn a hole in your pocket.
This journey is bound to take you both, on the wild side and over the edge. The road to Gurudongmar is a rough rollercoaster with forests of pines and rhododendrons on one side and steep precipitous ravines on the other. Unpredictable rains take the whole experience to a higher plane. Snow capped mountains preen over you all through the six hour ride to Thangu, the last settlement on the North Sikkim highway. And they do a fine job of keeping your mind off the anticipated plunge into the Teesta gushing some thousand feet below. Keep a buffer of 2-3 hours in your travel plans as rains can cause landslides, sinking areas and dead-ends can hold you up for what might seem like eternity. We were lucky as an Infantry Leiutenant Colonel came to our rescue and while the driver wrestled with the silt, we had hot pakoras and coffee at the Officers Mess 2 kilometres ahead of Lachen.
Six to eight hours of nerve wrecking drive leaves you tired, breathless (literally) and at a log-cabin 17000 feet above sea-level. The temperature is below freezing and all you want to do is curl up and sleep forever. Which is good, as a full 24 hours rest is recommended at Thangu to get acclimatised. The teeth-chattering temperatures can also work as an excuse to try out the local beer called Tchang... but then at six kilometres above sea level, try this at your own peril.
Waking up next morning can be a huge pain... but the promise of a 'bukhara' (a locally designed heater) in the warm kitchen lined with whiskey and brandy bottles can act as a good incentive. "What's the rush?" can be answered by the clockwork precision with which Gurudongmar gets dangerous as the day progresses. Clear blue skies turn ugly by two in the afternoon. A breakfast of piping hot tea and roti-sabji and you are on your way.
The hilly landscape turns into a barren moonscape and you find yourself cruising along dirt-tracks of Tibetan plateau. The game of spot the bunkers begins. After all, you are at the India-China border. Streams with icy waters lined with icicles and snow run along the tracks. An hour along this road and a few false alarms later, you reach the final frontier... literally. You are at Gurudongmar. But nothing has prepared you for this sight of a frozen milky reservoir surrounded by towering ice covered peaks. The multicoloured flags flutter gaily over the snowy landscape. Tempted, you step out, only to face the reality of icy-cold biting winds flirting with every exposed bit of your flesh.
A cup of black tea from the Sarvadharmasamabhav (secular) temple shop provides some relief. The warning from the vendor - Don't keep the cups outside, the wind will blow them off, doesn't! You take a quick sip from the lake as locals scamper to fill Bisleri and Pepsi bottles with sacred for relatives back home. A kind soul asks you to pile up a few stones as it is lucky. You oblige and are promptly back in the comfort of the jeep. They say it is lonely at the top. I don't know about that, but I can sure promise you... it is freezing cold!
As you drive back, the black clouds are already gathering on the horizon. It was an experience of a lifetime for you. But it is just another day at Gurudongmar. The rain catches up as you descend to 15000 feet but your mind is already set on that large scotch on the rocks waiting for you in Gangtok's Buzz bar.
It is a wise strategy to treat Gangtok like a base to recuperate from winding roads, rarified atmosphere and meals consisting of various preparations featuring potato and cabbage as popular as Shahrukh and Kajol starrers.
Flying Monks, magical black hats that enable the wearer to fly, secret monastic rituals, warring and powerful monk factions are compelling mystical attractions. Let's not forget the flowers whose existence in the wild seems obscenely wrong to a city-slicker. If you have the stamina of a yak then the Yuksom - Dzongri trek would be a good start off to first time trekkers. Seasoned trekkers will have already heard of the famous Goecha -la trek that takes you to the Kanchendzonga base camp. Hit the gym at least a year before you attempt any of these. Sikkim is challenging and out-of-shape is just not happening, unless you want to stick to the same ol' tourist tracks.
Accommodation: Pandim Lodge, a quaint family run lodge owned by Krishna, son of an erstwhile secretary to the king is a good option.
Season: April to October. Avoid travelling during the Durga Pooja holidays.
Must see: Gurudogmar Lake
Must do: Experience the 'Godfather' chairs at Glenary's Buzz bar in Gangtok.
Gangtok is a study in contrast. Praying wheels and cruiser bikes, streaked haired youth and robed monks, praying flags and hip brands, a monastery founded by a flying monk and a pub straight out of Americana - the city has it all. Two days in this city of ups and downs and you are through with tempting shoes (!!!), cosmetics, clothes (and handicrafts) from Lal Bazaar and M G Marg shops. Overlook the cosmetics and pick up a sturdy pair of boots. Walking is a way of life in Sikkim. And ladies, be ready for the ultimate feet... err... feat. The local women make the most of dry roads in summer by navigating steep slopes on six inch heels. Caution: Try this at your own risk! Take my advice; some things are just to be admired.
Although places around Gangtok are lovely tourist attractions, take my word and hire a 4-wheel drive jeep to take you north by northwest. Destination - Gurudongmar, a lake frozen all through the year at a splendid height of 19000 feet. Believe me its breathtaking - provided you have any breath left when you reach there!
Now this is easier said than done. There are dozens of tour operators - quoting varying levels of exorbitant rates (anywhere between 9000 to 19000 rupees for a 3 nights/4 days tour (guide, driver, lodging, boarding included). Scout around. Check your funds and decide. A wise thing would be to gather your gal pals along as single travel in the North Sikkim can burn a hole in your pocket.
This journey is bound to take you both, on the wild side and over the edge. The road to Gurudongmar is a rough rollercoaster with forests of pines and rhododendrons on one side and steep precipitous ravines on the other. Unpredictable rains take the whole experience to a higher plane. Snow capped mountains preen over you all through the six hour ride to Thangu, the last settlement on the North Sikkim highway. And they do a fine job of keeping your mind off the anticipated plunge into the Teesta gushing some thousand feet below. Keep a buffer of 2-3 hours in your travel plans as rains can cause landslides, sinking areas and dead-ends can hold you up for what might seem like eternity. We were lucky as an Infantry Leiutenant Colonel came to our rescue and while the driver wrestled with the silt, we had hot pakoras and coffee at the Officers Mess 2 kilometres ahead of Lachen.
Six to eight hours of nerve wrecking drive leaves you tired, breathless (literally) and at a log-cabin 17000 feet above sea-level. The temperature is below freezing and all you want to do is curl up and sleep forever. Which is good, as a full 24 hours rest is recommended at Thangu to get acclimatised. The teeth-chattering temperatures can also work as an excuse to try out the local beer called Tchang... but then at six kilometres above sea level, try this at your own peril.
Waking up next morning can be a huge pain... but the promise of a 'bukhara' (a locally designed heater) in the warm kitchen lined with whiskey and brandy bottles can act as a good incentive. "What's the rush?" can be answered by the clockwork precision with which Gurudongmar gets dangerous as the day progresses. Clear blue skies turn ugly by two in the afternoon. A breakfast of piping hot tea and roti-sabji and you are on your way.
The hilly landscape turns into a barren moonscape and you find yourself cruising along dirt-tracks of Tibetan plateau. The game of spot the bunkers begins. After all, you are at the India-China border. Streams with icy waters lined with icicles and snow run along the tracks. An hour along this road and a few false alarms later, you reach the final frontier... literally. You are at Gurudongmar. But nothing has prepared you for this sight of a frozen milky reservoir surrounded by towering ice covered peaks. The multicoloured flags flutter gaily over the snowy landscape. Tempted, you step out, only to face the reality of icy-cold biting winds flirting with every exposed bit of your flesh.
A cup of black tea from the Sarvadharmasamabhav (secular) temple shop provides some relief. The warning from the vendor - Don't keep the cups outside, the wind will blow them off, doesn't! You take a quick sip from the lake as locals scamper to fill Bisleri and Pepsi bottles with sacred for relatives back home. A kind soul asks you to pile up a few stones as it is lucky. You oblige and are promptly back in the comfort of the jeep. They say it is lonely at the top. I don't know about that, but I can sure promise you... it is freezing cold!
As you drive back, the black clouds are already gathering on the horizon. It was an experience of a lifetime for you. But it is just another day at Gurudongmar. The rain catches up as you descend to 15000 feet but your mind is already set on that large scotch on the rocks waiting for you in Gangtok's Buzz bar.
It is a wise strategy to treat Gangtok like a base to recuperate from winding roads, rarified atmosphere and meals consisting of various preparations featuring potato and cabbage as popular as Shahrukh and Kajol starrers.
Flying Monks, magical black hats that enable the wearer to fly, secret monastic rituals, warring and powerful monk factions are compelling mystical attractions. Let's not forget the flowers whose existence in the wild seems obscenely wrong to a city-slicker. If you have the stamina of a yak then the Yuksom - Dzongri trek would be a good start off to first time trekkers. Seasoned trekkers will have already heard of the famous Goecha -la trek that takes you to the Kanchendzonga base camp. Hit the gym at least a year before you attempt any of these. Sikkim is challenging and out-of-shape is just not happening, unless you want to stick to the same ol' tourist tracks.
Accommodation: Pandim Lodge, a quaint family run lodge owned by Krishna, son of an erstwhile secretary to the king is a good option.
Season: April to October. Avoid travelling during the Durga Pooja holidays.
Must see: Gurudogmar Lake
Must do: Experience the 'Godfather' chairs at Glenary's Buzz bar in Gangtok.
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